The arrival in Lorgues of a Meilleur Ouvrier de France chef is the news of spring in the center of Var. For a city that does not lack good restaurants, this was probably not an absolute need, but the catering offer is singularly enriched.
By taking over La Table du moulin, a historic address located at the foot of the Saint-Martin collegiate church, Jacques Rolancy, MOF 1996, breathes new life into an old 18th century oil mill. The vaulted room with its imposing stone millstone and intact wine presses is a bit dated but has been refreshed, and the terrace with its false lawn floor and plant decor has a view of the bell tower of the collegiate church. The decor is thus planted with a peaceful and sunny restaurant just a stone’s throw from the heart of the city.
Paris, London, Nice… Lorgues
For this Lyonnais with a concrete curriculum, it’s the big rebound. Past at Orsi, Chapel, L’Auberge du Père Bise, Robuchon (at the time of Jamin), Taillevent or L’Auberge des Templiers in Bézards, he held the kitchens of the Hilton Park Lane in London before becoming head of Les Viviers in Nice in 2006, which he renamed Rolancy’s but had to leave in 2020 during the first confinement. The course is substantial, the border of the pass remains tricolor but Jacques Rolancy, associated with Laurent Magret in this new adventure, does not take Lorgues for a conquered ground.
At noon, take the “workers’ menu”
From his first card, I rediscovered his common sense and his mastery. Zucchini, ricotta and fresh goat cheese spring rolls, baby potatoes stuffed with pork and foie gras, delicious vegetable and falafel tajine, just-cooked cod fillet, caramelized with miso, warm asparagus and new potatoes in a salad, finally the brioche, vanilla ice cream or tarte tatin and quenelles of double cream, here are gourmet dishes that do not leave you in the open country, the lonely plate and the small portion.
Jacques Rolancy is simply doing what he has always known how to do. To cook. It is even a pleasure to see this sincere craftsman getting back to work without glorifying the past or lecturing and approaching his Var chapter with modesty and at wise prices. Depending on the day, a weekly table invites brandade of cod, pork belly a la plancha or croque-monsieur and truffled white ham and the midday offer is called, without any demago, “workers’ menu”. That says it all.
The Mill Table. 5 rue des Climènes, in Lorgues. Menus 25 and 29 euros for lunch 38 euros for dinner. Closed Sunday evening and Monday. Free parking opposite the restaurant.