OWe wouldn’t necessarily have gone to them, but we still let ourselves be tempted, remembering this immutable rule that applies to the kitchen: never let doubt hang over your head and keep your palate clear. So we succumbed to the gyozas of Vesper, a restaurant with a half-secret, half-spooky atmosphere that opened at the end of January on avenue Bosquet, in the 7and district, near the Military School. The third address of serial restaurateur Guillaume Benard after Fitzgerald and Abstinence.
In this temple combining two rooms in one – a festive first in golden tones with its central bar and open kitchen, a second intimate with its velvet benches and colonial-style wallpapers – Lucas Felzine celebrates Nikkei cuisine , blending the flavors of Peru and Japan. It is precisely this fusion of South America and the empire of the land of the Rising Sun that permeates the gyozas (18 euros). It takes no less than five days to shape its plump ravioli, grilled on one side and steamed on the other, revealing themselves in a deep plate. All that remains is to tackle their tasting.
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Beneath each thin layer of wheat and rice dough, our taste buds discover a subtle duck stuffing from Quercy or the Landes declined between the legs in minidés and the shredded sleeves. This apparent delicacy is suddenly electrified by an explosion of flavors in the mouth. It starts with the Japanese virgin condiment combining yuzu kosho, soy, miso… which tops the gyozas. An intensity that continues by savoring the broth of a Peruvian curry made with peppers (aji panca, aji amarillo, rocoto) and herbs (huacatay, a kind of marigold, and papalo, a kind of coriander). In the end, all the forces present dialogue on a thread to achieve a rare balance. A sacred tour de force!
This is the alchemy found throughout the mischievous card imagined by Lucas Felzine. Like the sea bream ceviche with tiger leche and seaweed jam (21 euros), grilled octopus lacquered with spices and olives (32 euros) or pork belly (28 euros) confit ten hours at robata (Japanese barbecue), umeshu (Japanese plum) and huacatay (marigold again). Sushi fans can rely on the fine blade of Mitsuho Miyauchi, who brings out around twenty references of sashimi, nigiri, maki, temaki (from 7 to 30 euros) per minute.
For dessert, don’t miss the stunning sesame and yuzu mochi (12 euros). Far from the traditional frozen versions, here it is deliberately served soft and is to die for. On the liquid side, venture into the dazzling cocktail menu (from 12 to 17 euros) created by Agathe Potel. With obviously the Vesper (16 euros) dear to James Bond and slightly revisited (Hendrick’s gin, cucumber, vermouth, dill, celery bitters).
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Vesper, 81, avenue Bosquet, Paris (7and). Open Monday to Sunday noon and evening. Menus: 38 and 45 euros at lunch. Menu: from 39 to 85 euros. 01 45 33 81 25 vesperparis.com